Manufacture of welt shoes



June 18, 1940a K ENGEL 2,204,669

MANUFACTURE OF WELT SHOES Filed Dec. 23 1937 VVE/WUR KM A fbg@ am?,

MKM

` `Patented June 18, 194()` y I f Shoe Flemington, N.

Machinery Corporation,` Borough of J a corporation of New Jersey I Application December 23, 1937,;Serial No. 181,333 i Claim. 101.2125142) l,

This invention relates to themanufacture of shoes of those types in which a shoe upper is provided with a welt to which a sole is attached.

The invention is herein illustrated in its applica- 5 tion to the manufacture of pre-welted shoes, that is,.shoes inthe manufacture of which; a welt `is stitched to the upper before the upper is lasted. I

In the commercial manufacture of shoes provided with sole-attachingwelts there-is a spacei min the shoe bottom after the lasting operation which in Goodyear Welt shoes is ordinarily filled `with a cork paste and in pre-welted shoes is ordinarily lled by a` raised central portion of an or felt or like..

insole or by a filler piece of cork l5 `material which is cut to fit the space enclosed by the inner edge face of thewelt after the lupper has been lasted. It is an `object of the present invention to obviate the'requirementof `a filler orz the like in the manufacture of shoeshaving` m sole-attaching welts thereby to reduce the costof material and labor required for the manufacture of` such shoes and also `to provide a superior product. I

`With the above object in view ltheinvention in 5 one aspect thereof consists in an improvement in? methods of making shoes which comprises providing a thread sole having a Welt-receiving rabbet denedby an inner shoulder and providinga welt complemental` to said `rabbet and shaped to register with said rabbet, said welt as herein illustrated being the strip cut from the solein forming the rabbet,1securing said welt to thegbottoml margin of an upper whichhas not beenlasted with the inner margin of the Welt extendngfbeyond `the edge of the upper, positioning asock lining member `with its outer margin in engagement with the Welted marginof the upper `and arranged to cover thee'dges of the uppersand the welt and securing the sock lining tothewelted margin of the upper by a cig-zag I `seam the outer portions of which extend through the welt, upper, and sock lining, while its inner portions extend through the welt andsock lining buthot through the upper, the edge of the upper i being positioned widthwise of the Welt between theinner and outer portions of said seam.

As herein illustrated the sock lining is in two parts, thecombined width of which is somewhat greater than the width of `the shoe bottom. The sock `lining, parts` are secured to the Welted margin at opposite sides of the forepart of the upper i and are laid upon the last bottom after the upper is lasted with the free margin of one member overlapping the free margin of the other. Preferablyythe overlapping margins are cemented together `andthe sock lining thus provided is `preferably cemented to the outsole.

The invention will now be described with reference to theaccompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a sole showing a lengthof welting cut from the margin at one side of the sole;

Fig.w2is a cross-sectional view through the forepart` of an upper embodying features of the present finvention, the upper being shown held in lasted position by the wipers of a pre-welt lastingmachine;

Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional View similar to Fig 2 showing a sole spaced above the shoe bottom with its marginal recess positioned to register with the welt; and

`Fig.`4 isa perspective view of a completed shoe with part of the upper and partof the shoe bottom broken away. I

Referring to Fig. 1,a sole I0 which has been cut to conform to the periphery of the shoe bottom is provided with a recess or rabbet I2 in the margin of its attaching face, said recess extending about the entire extent of the periphery of the sole. The sole IIJ, `as illustrated in Fig. 4, is a tread sole, or ground-engaging sole; For convenience it will be referred to hereinafter as an outsole. Preferably the outsole is made of grain leather with the grain surface uppermost and the` its outer edge face I 6 to its inner edge I8. It,

will be understood that the rabbet I2 formed in Vthe margin of the outsole has the same dimensions as the welt I4, being the complement thereof. As illustrated in Fig. 3, the formation of the recess "I2 in the outsole provides a marginal bevel in said sole the angle of which to the plane of the raised portion 36 of the outsole corresponds toy the taper of the welt I4.

As illustrated in Figs 3 and 4, the welt I4 is secured to theoverlasting margin of an upper 20 by a chainstitch seam 22, as usual in the manufacture of pre-welted shoes.

surface `of the upper and providing the exposed face of the welt in `the completed shoe. For providing a smooth and comfortable inner surface in the shoe bottom the illustrated shoe has an insole or sock lining herein illustrated as two pieces 24 and 26 of thin material, preferably fabric, which are` secured to the Welted margin The welt is posi` `tioned with its grain surface engaging the outer of the upper prior to vthe lasting operation by zig-Zag seams 28 and 30. The sock lining members extend from: the rearward extremity of the shank portion of the shoe forwardly to the inner edge of the welt at the toe end of the shoe. The rear portions of the sock lining members are covered by a heel pad 32 of usual construction.

' The inner margins 34 (Fig. 2) of the sock lining members overlap and preferably aresecured together by cement after the upper has been lasted.

In the manufacture of the illustrated shoe ther Welt i4 is stitched to the lasting margin of the upper 20, for example by means ofi a` chainstitch sewing machine. After the Welt I4 has been secured to the upper and before the upper ismounted on a last the sock lining members 24 and 26 are secured to the Welted margin of the upper, preferably by a sewing machine which forms a zig-zag seam such as the seams. illustrated at 28 and 30 in Fig. 4. As illustrated in Fig. 3, the outer portions of the seams 2B and ,30.

extend through the Welt, upper, and sock lining members while the inner v,portionsof said seams extend through the weltand sock lining members but not through the upper, the edge of the upper being positioned between. the inner and outer y desired. f

In lasting the illustrated shoe the welted marportions of said seams. Thus it will be seen that the recess in the center of the shoe bottom enclosed by the inner edge of the Welt corresponds in depth to the height of the raised portion 36- Fig. 3) of the outsole l0 and consequently said raised portion will exactly ll the yrecess in the shoe bottom and no. other iiller Will be required. The upper lining` 2 I, which; islmade of thin fabric,- may extend to the` inner edge of the Welt if gin is worked over the bottom vof a last and laid flat on the margin of the last bottom as shown in Fig. 2. It is, of course, necessary in lasting to `bring the Welt into al position on the last bot-v tom in Which it will register with the rabbet l2 in the margin of the attachingk face of the outl sole I0 when the outsole is positioned v'for at.- tachment to the shcebottom, as illustrated in Fig. 3. If the upper islasted by meansr of lasting wipers `such as the Wipers 38 illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3, they positioning-l of the welt could be effected by providing in the lastingY machine adjustable stops for arresting the advancement After the upper has been lasted and the in` d ner margins of the sock lining members have been secured together the outsole l0 is cement-- attached to the welt i4 and preferably also to the sock lining. During the sole-attaching operation the lasting Wipers 38 remain advanced to hold kthe upper in lasted position and to support the outer margin `of the welt while the outsole is pressed against it. Preferably theoutsole I0 is permanently attached tothe Welt by, any-suitable cement. The machine by which the upper is lasted may be provided with sole-laying-mechanism such as that illustrated and described in United vStates Letters Patent No. 2,042,518, granted June 2, k1936, on an application filed in the name of the present applicant. Or, ifdesired, the outsole may be attached to the Welt by stitches or other fastenings. l

While the invention is herein illustrated in its application to the manufacture of a type of pre-Welted shoe in which the Welt is cut from an outsole, it is to be understood that the invention `is not thus limitedin its scope but is applicable, for example, vto the manufacture oi"V welted shoes having molded outsoles made oi' rubber or' vother suitable nioldable material in which a marginal Welt-receiving recess is formed in the molding of the sole. The welt would then, of course, be formed to t into the welt-receiving recess provided in the sole and it could be made of material suchl asthe sole is made ofl or of any other suitable material. It will be understood that if the vveltv and upper are to be permanently secured together by cement the materials of which they are mademust be adapted to cement r' attachment butiit'is. to be remembered that, as

previously-stated, it is Within the scope of the invention to secure the Welt and outsole together by stitches or other fastenings if desired, in which case the Welt and outsole could be made ofv any suitablematerials without regard to their adaptability for cement attachment. For example, the

welt might be `made of leather and the sole of rubber. .y

- While the shoe herein illustrated and described is provided With a novelsock lining, the sockv lining may be entirely omitted', if desired, without departing from the `present invention.- It is, of course,l obvious that the manufacture of Welted shoes in accordance with the` present invention, insofaras it relates to the making of the welt andA outsole, the lastingof the upper andY the attachment of the sole would not be materially altered; bythe omissionof the spek lining members.

Havingthus described my invention, what I claimas new; and desire to secure by LettersPatent ofthe United States is:

That method of making prewelte'd shoes which comprises providing a ytread solel having amar.-

ginal welt-receiving rabbet dened by an inner shoulder and providing awelt complemental to said rabbetV yand shaped to` register with saidl rabbet through the length of the latter, securing said Welt tothe bottom margin of an unlasted upper with the innermargin of the Welt extending beyond the edge of the upper, `positioning a sock lining member with its outermargin in engagement with the inner surface of the welted'margin of the upper and covering the edges of the upper and the welt, and securing the sock :lining to the Welted margin ofthe upper by a zi'gf-zag 'seam the outer portions of which extendthrougli thewelt, upper, and sock lining while itsinner` portions extend through the Welt and sock lining but not through the upper, the edge of the upper being positioned 'Widthwise of the, Welt betvveenv the inner and outer 'portions of saidl seam.

KARL ENGEL. 

